All bras, all the time!

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    1. The Bra Fairy

      Oh goodness, there are so many options! First of all, I suggest looking for 34E bras: They’re generally the same cup size, and they’re made by companies who know the alphabet doesn’t end at DD. In my experience, DD cups are generally an afterthought from companies who prefer producing a smaller range of sizes (usually A-D cups). (Victoria’s Secret comes to mind.)

      Freya and Panache are two of the more popular UK brands and they have quite a range of styles. They do tend towards fuller coverage, so if that’s not your preference you do have some options:

      1. Balkonetka.pl shows styles and how they fit on customers, so you may glean information about styles and brands that work for you.

      2. BraStop.com carries a very wide range of styles, and the brands they carry are sometimes quite good for cleavage. (I believe they carry Wonderbra styles in a 34E, and those certainly aren’t matronly.) You can also use HerRoom, FigLeaves, and Bare Necessities to find great 34E bras. eBay UK should also have some great bargains.

      3. In terms of non-matronly and available in all sorts of sizes, I suggest perusing http://www.ewa-michalak.pl as they realize that large-breasted women deserve gorgeous bras (and matching undies!)

    2. The Bra Fairy

      Assuming the cup and band are correct, which you say they are, there is a pretty simple solution: You’re wearing a style that doesn’t suit your shape.

      Because you fill out the rest of the cup but not the top, you most likely have pear-shaped breasts that are fuller on the bottom than the top. As such, when you put on a full-coverage bra the comparative lack of tissue on the upper part of your breast means that you suddenly have a circus tent going on up there—and that’s no fun.

      You need to try half/demi-cups or balconette cups, as they will work with your shape and come up low enough that you have plenty of coverage but avoid having surplus material. Thankfully, there are plenty to choose from in your size range!

      Good for your shape: http://www.herroom.com/chantelle-3086-rive-gauche-t-shirt-bra.shtml
      Bad for your shape: http://www.herroom.com/fantasie-4500-molded-smooth-cup-bra.shtml

    3. The Bra Fairy

      I agree that it’s probably the wrong size for you. Good for you for noticing!

      Let’s start with your band size:

      *If your ribs are very bony (and you don’t have much extra padding around them) I’d start with a 32 band.
      *If your ribs have some squish over them (and you prefer a snugger fit) I’d start with a 30 band.

      Once you determine which band fits better ( http://tinyurl.com/TBFbands ) then it’s time to figure out your cup size. Depending on the width and depth (or length) of your breasts, you have a few choices. My suggestions, based on your measurements:
      30F
      30FF
      30G
      30GG
      32E
      32F
      32FF
      32G

      If possible, try all of those sizes. If the band is snug across your back and doesn’t ride up, your band size is fine. If your cups fully encase all of your breast tissue, aren’t wrinkly or bulging, and if you’re not falling out the top/bottom/sides, then you’re wearing the right size cup.

    4. The Bra Fairy

      It means that your wires are too small (or narrow) and your band--assuming it's not riding up--is correct. Try going up a cup size (or two) and trying brands with wider wires to determine which will solve your problem.

    5. The Bra Fairy

      Whew, those are a lot of topics! Let’s handle them individually:

      1. “Is so bad to choose to buy more less expensive bras (maybe 2-3 a year)?”
      Not all quality bras are expensive. In fact, my Ewa Michalak bras are far sturdier than my Freya bras—and the Freyas were twice the price ($25 vs. $60).

      While I don’t suggest buying bras at Target/Walmart or Victoria’s Secret, you can find good bras on eBay Worldwide (Freya, Panache, Fantasie, etc.) for less than a Victoria’s Secret bra in store. Ewa Michalak is based in Poland, so right now the exchange rate is pretty good for most countries.

      In my experience, you should not pay more than $40 for an everyday bra—especially if you can order it online. Shop around, and don’t settle.



      2. “Hand washing is too much for me, I can't do it.”
      If you want to wash your bras in a machine, there’s nothing I can do to stop you. I will say, however, that most people don’t understand how easy it is to hand wash bras:
      1: Fill basin/sink/pot with water and detergent of choice (Forever New / Intimacy / etc.)
      2: Soak bras for the minimum listed on the instructions (or longer, if possible)
      3: Rinse
      4: Lay flat to dry (I place mine on a towel)

      That’s it. Removing the soaking and drying time, the total time it takes to hand wash bras is under five minutes. If you don’t have five minutes to spare then by all means, wash your bras in the machine--just never put them in a dryer. Ever.



      3. “Also what if the band size is either only too small or too large?”
      Then you’re wearing the wrong brands. Without knowing what size you are, I’m going to say (for purposes of making this concrete) that you measure 33” under your bust. That means that in some brands you’re going to be a 32, and in some brands a 34. You need to try on the bras to make sure they fit. Bands aren’t standardized, so you’ll need to be your own advocate. If all else fails, bra extenders can work well for a slightly too-small band.
      If you need more detailed recommendations, please let me know what the exact issue is (your underbust measurement, amount of fat on your ribcage, etc.) and I can help you further.

    6. The Bra Fairy

      Many congratulations on your upcoming wedding! Thankfully a 32DD is fairly common size, so you might have luck in a department store. If you’d prefer to stay with upscale lingerie brands, you’ll probably find this link to be helpful: http://www.investinyourchest.co.uk/is-the-ultimate-strapless-really-the-ultimate-strapless-the-search-for-the-best-strapless-bra

      There are two types of strapless bras; I call them encasing and enhancing:

      *The Panache Porcelain, Panache Evie, and Freya Deco are encasing, so they provide support without much—if any—cleavage.

      *Ewa Michalak's Czarny Strapless (and anything by Ewa Michalak, really) and Wonderbra's Ultimate Strapless are enhancing, so they provide support with a nice cleavage.

      All of the above can be purchased online. Figleaves, Bare Necessities, and HerRoom are the most popular sites, but if money is an issue—or you really love a good deal—then eBay UK is your best bet.

    7. The Bra Fairy

      A good cleavage starts with a supportive band. You should be wearing a 26 band (or a 28 band if you feel that the 26 is too tight).

      Once you’ve determined your band size, you need to figure out what sort of cup you want. Because you’ve a 9-inch difference between your underbust and apex, you’re most likely a 26FF or 26G. (That’s approximately a 28F or FF.) I suggest trying a 28FF from Ewa Michalak (http://www.ewa-michalak.pl ) as her bands are notoriously tight.

      Stick with plunge bras, as they expose a larger area of cleavage than a half-cup. The Panache Zara (or the old Inferno) or Freya Deco are also good places to start.

    8. The Bra Fairy

      Without knowing what your underbust measurement is, I can’t say for sure what your estimated size is. I have a feeling the 34G is correct, if only because you’ve been wearing a 38DD so the 40C is too big. (A 38DD is the same thing as a 38E.)

      If your underbust measures 34” or 35”, you’ll want to try a 34 band. It will feel very strange as you’re used to a larger band slipping and sliding up your back, but it will be immensely more supportive and secure.

      Once you change back sizes the cup volume should also change proportionally: 38E>36F>34G.
      You might find, though, that depending on the company you could be a 34FF. Some companies go E, F, G--but some go E, F, FF, G. It's very confusing, but once you know your approximate size it’ll get easier.

      Please let me know how it goes!

    9. The Bra Fairy

      So long as the tissue is fully inside the cup, the wire height is fine. Some women prefer a higher wire, while others prefer a lower one. If the width of the wire is large enough to accommodate your breast tissue, then it’s possible that some tissue will still be at the top. If it’s not interfering with your range of movement then it’s a good fit.
      Bra fitting isn't an exact science. If you’re properly supported, ALWAYS go for comfort.

    10. The Bra Fairy

      A 32C is the equivalent cup volume to a 34B, just with a smaller back. Would you listen to someone who told you were wearing the wrong sock size?
      Wear what makes you comfortable. If what makes you comfortable is a 32C, then rock those 32Cs and ignore the naysayers.

    11. The Bra Fairy

      I’m going to answer this as best I can, with one caveat: I don’t care if my fitter sees me naked or not so long as I get great service.

      I understand that some women don’t feel as comfortable as I do, and that’s fine. What you need to do, though, is communicate to your fitter your wishes. They can’t be responsible for your being uncomfortable if you don’t speak up.

      Most places will look at you with your top off but bra on, visually evaluate you, and then bring you what they think is your size. At this point it can go one of two ways:
      1. You take off your old bra and have the salesperson help you put on the new one
      2. You ask them to step out of the room for a moment while you change, change, and then ask them to come back in so they can evaluate how the bra fits
      Once you’ve determined your proper size, then they bring you more bras in your size and you pick what you like.

      If a store lets you buy a bra sight unseen, it’s a worry for them that you’ll buy the wrong bra. Bra stores (Intimacy, Breakout Bras, Bravissimo) make their money as specialty stores. If you’re wearing an ill-fitting bra you fitted yourself and someone asks where you got it, the store’s reputation suffers.

      Bottom line: Speak up. If you want to remain clothed, say so. If you want to try on other styles or colors, say so. If you don’t feel comfortable, say so.

    12. The Bra Fairy

      If you’re wearing a 0 or 2 you’re most likely a 24 or 26 band. The problem with being so tiny is that there isn’t much of a market (yet!) for under-30 bands. It’s an emerging demographic, in part due to the eradication of the plus-four method of measuring.

      Ewa "Effuniak" Michalak offers bras in small back sizes, and her bands are known for being “boa constrictors”. Here’s a great post on the subject: http://www.thinandcurvy.com/2011/05/where-to-find-26-and-24-band-bras-and.html

      Some other brands offer 26 bands, but it’s often quite the hunt to find them. I suggest checking out eBay (UK or worldwide) for smaller bands. Often you’ll find great deals on bras from last season—and honestly, who cares what season they’re from so long as they fit well?

    13. The Bra Fairy

      While the answer would initially appear to be “no”, the answer is actually a resounding “YES!”.

      I am assuming you are wearing the correct back size. (I’ve written about determining that already in a prior post.) If you are, indeed, wearing the correct back size then I would invite you to investigate which bras have shallower or deeper cups. By knowing that certain brands or styles run slightly small (or large), you’ll be able to effectively buy an A1/2 and not need to squeeze into As or fail to fill out Bs. This link may help you in your quest: http://tinyurl.com/bracups. Note that companies (especially in larger sizes, but also found in smaller ones) do not have the same sizing across the board. One company’s B could be another’s C or even A. The lack of standardization is frustrating, so be your own advocate!

      I’ve found through trial and error which cups fit me and which are not suited to my breast size and shape. If you’re not able to visit a reputable store (Intimacy, Breakout Bras, etc.) then I suggest browsing eBay for cheap bras in your approximate size or finding an online retailer with a great return policy.

      Please let me know how your quest goes!

    14. The Bra Fairy

      If the band is snug across your back and doesn’t ride up your band size is fine. If your cups aren’t wrinkly or bulging, and if you’re not falling out the top, bottom, or sides, then you’re wearing the right size bra.
      Many people wrongly believe that a G is “ginormous”. First of all, there is no such this as a “G”. A 26G is a whole different size than a 40G. A G-cup simply means you have (approximately!) an 8” between your ribs and chest. Honestly, G-cups are larger than average but every single woman that I’ve met who thought she was a DD ended up being an F+. You’re wearing the right size if you’re comfortable, your clothes fit well, and you pass the above list of fit questions.
      Tell your friends to go get properly fitted and then see if they still make the same comments!

    15. The Bra Fairy

      At this point I actually wouldn’t suggest just one bra. If you haven’t worn a bra in 35 years then I assure you that your estimated size is incorrect. Once you know what your proper size is (and it will vary depending on manufacturer and style) then we can assess what bras are right for you. I can guarantee that if you’re large-breasted you’re not a D or E. Those are actually fairly small sizes with only a 4- or 5-inch difference between the ribcage and the apex of the bust.

      If you truly hate bras and never wear them, then any bra recommendation I make you will hate, and here’s why: Underwires are meant to support, lift, and center the bust line. They should never poke, stab, itch, or break free of their encasements. If anything like that happens, you’re not wearing the proper cup size.
      I completely understand your reticence to buy anything that isn’t cotton, but bras have come a long way in 35 years. The scratchy, itchy, and stiff fabrics have given way to memory foam, moisture-wicking fabrics, and lace so soft you’ll want to pet it.

      I suggest finding a reputable bra store near you (Breakout Bras and Intimacy are spectacular) and getting fitted there. Make sure they carry at least A-K cups, as you want to have a wide variety of sizes to choose from.

    16. The Bra Fairy

      Most websites tell you that you must hand wash your bras on penalty of death. (I may have exaggerated slightly.) The reason for this is not to sell you crazily-expensive detergents, but to reduce the wear on the bra. Top-loading washing machines rely on the center piece (the agitator) to move the clothes around. That’s fine for sturdier fabrics, but lingerie is more delicate. Not only will it stretch all elastic, but it will also break down any molded cups. Bad news all around. Front-loading machines use gravity, but knocking your bra around is as bad as flinging it (which is basically what an agitator does).
      If you must wash them in a machine, use a sturdy bra enclosure. Do not use a lingerie bag as they’re too flimsy.

      Of course, the best way to wash your bras is by hand. I use Forever New, but anything similar will work. I’ve heard Intimacy has a proprietary wash that works well. To wash with Forever New is ridiculously simple: Fill basin, add detergent, mix well. Add bras, making sure to soak them thoroughly. Then let them sit in the wash water for as long as you can. Rinse, and you’re done. Lay them flat to dry (I place mine on a towel).

      NEVER use a dryer. The heat breaks down elastic so you’ll end up with unsupportive—but pretty—bras. If you are in mortal peril and must dry the bra ASAP (and please, I’d love to know how your priorities work) use a hairdryer on a low setting with a diffuser and waft it over the bra, staying a minimum of eight inches away from the bra.

    17. The Bra Fairy

      ALWAYS fit your larger breast. Most women have one breast that is larger than the other, and you never want to squish one breast in order to fit the other. If your asymmetry is considerable (more than a cup size difference between breasts) you may need to purchase something to fill out the smaller breast if it bothers you. There are plenty of suggestions on the internet, but the most popular are gel-filled ones, often jokingly called “chicken cutlets”.
      You wouldn’t squeeze a larger foot into a smaller shoe, so don’t do it with your breasts, either!

    18. The Bra Fairy

      So don't!
      While quality undergarments are a great investment, not everyone wants to shell out a ton of money. Your best bet is to use the internet to find great deals. eBay is amazing for cheap finds, but don’t underestimate using coupons for BareNecessities, FigLeaves, and the like. Herroom is amazing for details about items, but their prices are certainly less than stellar. Google Shopping is a great aggregator, but often has expired eBay listings.
      Quick eBay cheatsheet: BNWT = brand new with tags; BNWOT = brand new without tags; EUC = excellent used condition; GUC = good used condition.

    19. The Bra Fairy

      Yes, I believe there is a scam, but it’s the inverse of what you’re suggesting. For years bras have been commonly available in only a few sizes and people who wear them have been told the big band is because they have big breasts, thus they get no support. (Or, worse, the small band is because they have small breasts, thus they get underwire cutting off breast tissue—making already small breasts smaller.) From my experience, most people are wearing a bra two back sizes too big and two cup sizes too small.
      However, those improperly-fitted bras are flimsily made. (And not in the “Oooh, sexy! Bits of lace!” way but “I just bought this! How can it be falling apart already?!” way. For the record, lacy bras are available in much larger sizes than you would expect. A well-made lace bra is STRONG. Remember, support comes from the band.)

      So, it’s not that it’s a huge scam to get people to buy expensive bras. It’s that for so long we’ve accepted $20 bras that fall apart after a few months as normal, so the notion of buying a $100 bra that will last years scares us. Yes, it’s an initial investment. However, if you take good care of your bras (way easier than it sounds) they will last years. Of course, you should reevaluate your sizing at least annually, but bras can be altered. There’s no need to throw out your 34F Panache because you’re now a 32G. Taking in the back will allow the cup volume to remain the same, but will give you the band support you need.

    20. The Bra Fairy

      In a perfect world you wouldn’t need a tape measure. But, since not everyone has access to a store with a large array of sizes (don’t go to a store with anything less than A-K cups) here’s how to ballpark your band size yourself:

      1. As a general rule, band size is proportionate to dress size. (Notice I didn’t say shirt size, as many women buy bigger shirts to hide their chests.) For most women, the pattern is as follows: 28 = 4; 30 = 6; 32 = 8; 34 = 10; 36 = 12; 38 = 14.
      2. Find the right band first, then worry about the cups. Seriously.
      3. When you find a band you think might work, turn it around so that the cups are on your back and the clasp is on your sternum. The band should be straight across your back. It should not rise up or dip down. If you move around, it should stay put.
      4. Test for stretch. Two fingers should be able to slip comfortably underneath it. A hand, fist, arm or another human should not. It will most likely feel tighter than you’re used to, but unless you’re losing feeling in your toes, you’ll be fine.
      5. Congratulations, you’ve found your band size! (Note that bands stretch and each manufacturer is different. For instance, the Freya Deco is exceedingly stretchy, and most people should go a band size down (and thus a cup size up). But, for now, you’ve found your size!

The Bra Fairy

Southern California, USA

The Bra Fairy’s Bio

After being called "the bra fairy" by multiple people (including Intimacy's corporate headquarters), I've decided to take any and all questions regarding bras, breasts, and everything in between.

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