Ask me anything
Recent Responses
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I assume you're experienced shooting with Nikon DSLRs? If so, I wouldn't meter any differently than you normally do. Sure, incident metering with a handheld meter is the most accurate way to go, but it isn't necessary. I rate Tmax anywhere between ISO 250-400 and the results are great.
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I just answered this question.
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You need to check the rules in your city and state. In my location, for example, I need to register with the city to get a business license. In addition, I need to file quarterly sales taxes with the state. When I do my personal tax returns, I list my photography income and expenses.
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I own the Phaseone 645 AF, which is the same camera as the Mamiya AFD III, which is fully compatible with digital backs.
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I have a standard 401 and have not had a problem with flatness, so I can't really say...
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it depends, of course, on your budget and what you'll be using the camera for. I would go with a used 5D classic. Fantastic camera that can be had for a few hundred bucks.
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As for the film back, I have the HM401
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I learned exposure through experience. On my digital cameras, the metering on evaluative (matrix) metering works just fine, as long as you know when/how to adjust your exposure compensation. If you're unsure, try using a light meter using an incident reading. That will give you the most accurate exposure.
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you're out of luck. if you want high speed sync, you'll have to use your Canon/Nikon speedlight triggered by (1) a proprietary Canon/Nikon infrared trigger (2) Radio Poppers or (3) the new Pocketwizard flex triggers.
If you want high speed sync using your Alien Bees, then you'll need a different camera - one that has a higher sync speed than 1/200. For example, the old Nikon D70 has a sync of 1/500. Most Hasselblads have a sync of 1/800, and Mamiya has leaf-shutter lenses (very expensive) that can sync at 1/1600.
An excellent option is to use a point-n-shoot. Most p&s cameras have electronic, not mechanical shutters, so you can sync at 1/1000 - 1/2000 no problem. I demonstrate this in these posts:
http://laurencekim.com/2009/11/08/canon-g11-part-3/
http://laurencekim.com/2008/10/11/test-drive-panasonic-lx3/ -
? Thanks, but I'm not sure what you're talking about. How did I get what lined up?
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Panasonic GF2 w/14-42 lens in stock for $400 at B&H.
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in the studio i prefer seamless paper. very clean. i prefer white or grey.
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yes the 430 will do fine with a big umbrella. I generally favor umbrellas because they are (1) cheap (2) very quick to setup and (3) versatile. If you have a studio that's permanently set up (i.e. you can leave your strobes always set up without having to break them down with every shoot) then I might favor a softbox for their precision, but otherwise go with an umbrella.
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I don't care what you call it. But I do know the process for improving...
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Who said photographers are up there with Coltrane? You want to learn jazz? Then study some great players like Coltrane. You want to learn photography? Then start out by studying photographers you admire, imitate their techniques, and then make it your own. Not really sure there's any room to disagree with this.......
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thanks. I don't really do anything. I adjust the exposure in LR and that's pretty much it. Some light sharpening. Usually Smartsharpen at around 50%, radius 0.2
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Go to the index - you'll see a bunch of posts listed under post processing. But these days, I do very little. Almost none, other than maybe 15 seconds of minor LR adjustments.
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