I create them from scratch using pixel pro creator which works within photoshop.

No :) I'm way too lazy for that!

Too bad we didn't know what was coming...There wasn't even any leaves blowing in my yard when that all went down. I was totally oblivious.

It takes up too much space to shoot in raw and feels like extra steps to me. If you need the ability to adjust your wb or exposure on the back end then it would be worth it. But I try and get my images as close to perfect as possible in camera so I don't feel I need the back end latitude.

Not really. I had one basic photo class for film but my film camera broke and the teacher let me use digital so I don't think I learned too much ;)

You can shoot at f/16 on almost any lens. You just set that as your aperture. The lens you get next should depend on what you're shooting and the style/look you're going for. I love longer focal lengths, but that's just me. Some photographers love the look of wide angle and build their style around that. And I rarely use a tripod.

I'm at f/16, 1/250 & ISO 100.

I love the 105 2.8 macro. It's a great focal length and it can do close up.

I use the Einstein (in the Alien Bee family) light. So far I've really liked it.

I'm not raising them rather changing my package format and what they include. So if you can find something that works for you with 2011 pricing we'll be able to make 2012 work for you too. Overall I'm just opening up the custom collection option so I can meet more people's needs.

My 105 seems to be sharper, but is harder to focus in low light. The 135 gives you beautiful bokah especially if you have the one with the defocus control. I use my 135 more often, but I don't know if I can pick a favorite. I do like them both. 135 if a longer focal length so I think that's why I pick it over the 105.

For most of the shots that's I've added lighting, especially those where they're in the open grass field and on the bench I'm using a strobe with a parabolic umbrella not a reflector, so I don't have the problem with them keeping their eyes open. I used to just use reflectors, but did have the squinting problem. soemtimes it works to have them close their eyes and then on the count of three open them. But now that I've incorporated the flash, it is easier in that respect. Of course setting up lights takes time, but I felt it was worth it to get the rich colors in this particular shoot.

Nikon D700 & 135 2.0, 105 2.8 macro, 50 1.4 & 24-70 2.8

Two main reasons: 1. I don't want to limit the reception displays based on the bride's budget 2. Unless I charge a lot, prints aren't worth my time and because of reason 1, I don't want to charge a lot

I don't currently sell prints to my wedding clients. I refer them to www.mpix.com. I used to work with www.whcc.com for my prints back when I sold them.

I shoot JPEG almost exclusively. And I did learn a lot from the workshop, but part of that was becuase I'd already ready the workshop in a box. So yes, I do think the box is good, but I wasn't able to really put it into use until I attended the in person workshop and actually used my equipment. So depending on how you learn (if you can just read something and do it vs. needing hands on help) I think the box would be great. If you attend the in-person workshop the "box" is included so you'd get both.

Thanks :)

I burn an image onto memorex Lightscribe DVD's.

My main website is a Bludomain template.

You have to have enough light on the subject that their face is the same exposure as the blue sky, or close to it. So you can either have them facing into the sun or have their backs to the sun, but then you bounce back light with a reflector onto them.