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Our 110B takes 4x5. We love the 195 for weddings!
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Because the Fuji blows them both out of the water in terms of speed and quality. The Frontier really emulates the look and feel of a darkroom print. :-) It is not a consumer grade machine.
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I'm sorry. We don't have them hi res anywhere. The color pallet and underexposure latitude is the biggest difference.
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This answer will vary greatly depending on what film you shoot and what your workflow is. Cost of gear is part of your cost of shooting. So is your time in post production. In the end cost of doing business should be compensated for in your pricing structure. How you shoot and what you shoot should be determined by your creative vision not your accountant!
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Thank you?
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Rate the Portra at box speed. We always meter for the shadows in a scene.
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When using a pro custom lab like RPL, you must take advantage of an open diologe. If you don't communicate what you ate going for, film scanning & printing is completely subjective. There is no way that your coolscan is better than what Richard is using. You just have the advantage of knowing what look you are shooting for. In our experience, "creaminess" is best on the Frontier scanner. Communicate with your lab, and they will serve you better. Good luck.
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I don't know if there is a question in there but we love TLR and rangefinders, both have parallax to deal with. SLRs are easier for close up work.
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Both are great cameras! The II is much pricier! The I has all analog dials with no LCD screen which we like. Try both and see which suits you more!
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Ain't no lie... That mirror is huge! But we can handhold the 105mm at 1/60 with good results for portrait work. Slower than that you can use the quick mirror lockup option to pop the mirror up just before firing the shutter. If you want a low light medium format camera get a TLR.
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Thanks. Some of it we pushed and some we did not. Most recently yes. But pushing or not pushing you still get the same info on the negative. Pushing color film just pulls up the curves placing some of the shadows in the midtone range effectively enhancing contrast and tonal separation on your underexposed shots.
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Yes we did. Metered the same as the shots here http://www.flickr.com/photos/bwrightphoto/5242748546/sizes/o/in/photostream/
but you can't push it anymore than 3 stops. So no ISO 12000 -
The 250 exp back was made for the Nikon F-F4 cameras. There were also 250 backs made for Olympus and Cannon manual focus cameras. Search google and eBay to see if there was a back made that will fit on a camera that would take your cannon lenses. If you want auto focus my guess is that you are out of luck.
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Polaroid Land Cameras all the way! Pro models: 195 & 180. The cheaper 250, 350 & 450 are good too. Get the close up adapter kit and go crazy!Â
Little 645 exposures or even 66 exposures look cheesy in my opinion. And the 600SE is lame. Bulky and limiting. You cant get close. You only need one lens. Use your legs! -
B&W film granularity does not take so well to overexposure, but the c-41 B&W, such as Kodak's BW400cn, has the highlight latitude of a color film. So it gets creamy rather than "chunky" as traditional B&W film does. But we prefer the look of true B&W film grain, and we just meter for the shadows mostly. You really just have to know the exposure latitude of the stock you use. Trial and error.
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I recommend all film!
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Lately I've been thinking about it quite a bit.
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When your lighting changes change your exposure. We meter ahead of time when possible. With your example I would meter first and probably shoot something like f/2 and 1/2000th and then open up to f/2 and 1/30th when they walk inside. It's pretty easy just to meter both scenes and change exposure when you see the light change. Shooting aperture priority with 2 exposure compensation works too so long as your subject isn't backlit. Just err on the side of overexposure.
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Meter however you want as long as you don't underexpose you're good!
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That is one of the difficulties of focussing with a rangefinder. I usually just put the sun behind my subject or something, focus and then move and recompose keeping that distance. Another issue is shooting through warped glass. Those are the limits of a rangefinder.
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